That you can have a terrible time in a really good restaurant, or a really good time in a terrible restaurant, is a truism that, of course, cannot be taken into consideration when a list of the world’s best restaurants is being compiled. If there are to be objective criteria, they can only be applied to the food. But we know that the dining out experience is about much more than food. It’s about mood, too. However, the fact that you had a blazing row with your partner over Heston’s snail porridge, or that you arrived late, and in a temper, because of the Tube strike, is, I’m afraid, inadmissible evidence when it comes to judging culinary excellence.